Make your Scars, Wrinkles, Spots Disappear!

Top Hacks for making spots, scars, blemishes vanish. 

Makeup creates the art of illusion and holds the power of disguise which can only benefit us when we need to hide unwelcomed flaws, blemishes and the likes, on our faces.

To distinguish the difference between cover-up makeup and cosmetics used for a natural soft appearance, I have given you a breakdown of what to use, how to and where to use it. Awaken the artist in you and use these tips and tricks to vanish any unwanted skin damage, scars or spots.

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Spots, Blemishes, Acne and Scars: 

Camouflage unwanted spots and the redness that surrounds them with a general concealer. Concealer is available in many different forms. My favourite type is a thick creamy texture that will deposit enough coverage to hide discolouring and tone down the appearance of acne.
Large spots and tiered scars are the hardest to cover because of the shape and size. The best technique to disguise spots and scars is to use a metal or plastic spatula (anything with a flat base). Dip the spatula in the concealer and put a generous amount on. Then use the spatula to literally paint the spot with a heavy coat of makeup. Next with either a sponge or a concealer brush (these are thin and flat shaped) blend the concealer lightly out onto the skin.
It is best to always apply concealer after your foundation. This way you ensure that you have a base for your concealer to glide on which then becomes easier to blend.

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Sunspots
Cover dark sun spots, usually brown in colour with a camouflage liquid or crème concealer. The trick to hiding spots of this nature is to look to the colour wheel to determine which shade of cosmetics to use.  Corrective concealer neutralises undesired under tones of the skin. For brown or chocolate coloured sun marks opt for a camouflage crème rich in warm tones such as peach, apricot or orange.  The warmth of the tone will cover the spot and make it appear one with your skin. Apply your foundation above this for an even all over finish.

 

Birth Marks, Pigmentation and Sun damage

 

Firstly try to hide marks, damage from the sun and deep pigmentation with a cream or powder based foundation. If the foundation fails to give you enough coverage, and this will depend on how scarred the skin is, then try a colour tint.

Colour tint is a concealer based on the colour wheel theory. A colour tint is a green, mauve, yellow or amber coloured concealer used to counteract the colour of the scar being disguised. They can also be mixed into foundation to alter its colour or used underneath your everyday foundation. Colour tints require blending and/or mixing to achieve a natural look.  Follow the guide below to help you choose the right shade.

Mauve veins or under eye circles – Use: Yellow or Peach concealer
Red capillaries, veins or scars (birthmarks) – Use: Green concealer

Blue veins, marks, scars – Use: Orange or Peach concealer

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Wrinkles
To conceal and hide the appearance of lines on your face is less about product and more about application. Spend time to create, blend and master your foundation base before applying more makeup. Ensure to use the correct brushes and applicators.
Use a foundation light in texture like a liquid or a mousse. Spread it out with a flat and synthetic brush using light brush strokes. This will ensure the makeup sits evenly on your skin and doesn’t sink into lines. Stay away from thick creams and cover-cake cosmetics, these will only enhance wrinkles and make them appear deeper.
Use a small fluffy brush when applying concealer around your eyes. This will ‘buff’ the makeup onto the skin and give off a great natural look.
For great coverage around eyes without the heavy cake-like finish some concealer can give, mix it with your eye cream before applying it. This changes the texture and gives a soft, silky smooth appearance – leaving you line-free.

 

Makeup may not change the shape of the face, but it can create the illusion of balanced features. Careful use of contouring and concealing may produce a more proportionate face by shading features that are too full or large, and by highlighting areas that are too small or thin, and covering unwanted scars and blemishes.

My Best Brow Secrets Revealed!

Okay ladies, lets get your Brows in formation!


In this week’s video, I filmed my process for Brow shaping with Katherine Ann-Marie from The Wardrobe as my model. This process is what I use to achieve a natural, low maintenance, groomed brow shape, which is easy to maintain for the average Kiwi woman.
We use this process in our Phoenix Cosmetics Salons and I am finally filming the process for the world to see.

Lets make your Brows a work of Arch

xx Phoenix

Bridal Beauty Tips

Bridal Beauty Tips with Phoenix Renata

Bridal season is upon us, Brides and weddings everywhere! In fact, one of my clients this past weekend told me they had a wedding event every weekend to attend all through February and March! I decided to put some tips together to help ladies (or gents) on their big day. If you are a Bride, part of the Bridal party or are a friend doing your friends makeup for her big day, I hope you will find these tips helpful.

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What makes a beautiful bride?
The glow one gets from taking care of herself during the lead up to the wedding, working out, eating healthy and drinking plenty of water. Of course makeup and hair styling help a bride to look her best, and in order to do that it is important to stick with beauty styles you feel comfortable in. Being healthy, happy and being yourself is the best tip to being beautiful.

How closely does bridal makeup follow trends?

Bridal makeup rarely follows fleeting fashion makeup trends; however we do all follow the style and fashions of the decade we currently live in unconsciously. In general bridal makeup is so unique to the individual, it is a reflection of your own personal image, I always recommend to wear makeup that will photograph well and you will feel yourself in.

Dos and Don’ts?

DON’T start a new skin care regime including having facials done too close to the wedding. Your skin needs time to flush out any toxins and it needs 4 weeks to do this completely.
DON’T wear a sunscreen and a spf moisturiser under your makeup, any skin care with too much moisture properties in it will wear your makeup off faster. Opt for one instead of both. For summer brides, avoid overdoing eyes, makeup runs in hot weather.

DO exfoliate your skin regularly in the build up to the big day.

DO let your moisturiser absorb into your face before applying makeup.

DO have your hair done before your makeup just in case your hair is wet, you don’t want to wet your beautiful makeup.
DO wear a double layer of mascara or fake eyelashes, extra mascara or lashes make your eyes appear open and flirty.

What consultations/service do you offer (ie practice runs etc?)

We offer a bridal makeup trial, this takes up to 45minutes. We discuss all the important details such as the dress, flowers, brides maids outfits, colour themes and the overall wedding theme. This is all taken into consideration when finding a perfect makeup fit for a bride.

We charge $75 and this is redeemable on product. I always recommend that after having the trial done the bride takes a photo of themselves to see if the makeup is strong enough. It is also crucial to wear the makeup for the rest of the day and to take note of any dislikes, so improvements or alterations can be made on the day.

How should bridal makeup differ from other special occasion makeup?  

Nothing is more special than your wedding day. Makeup allows you the opportunity to reinvent yourself over and over again, but for your wedding day you need to look yourself, just a more glamorous version.  Most special occasions are at night, weddings tend to go from day to evening so you need makeup that looks appropriate in the daylight but can continue to accentuate your face well into the night. I recommend changing your makeup slightly if it is an all day and night event. Something as simple as a bit of eyeliner applied after the ceremony can make all the difference.

Most brides want to look better than ever before without feeling overly made up, the trick to achieving this is choosing the right colours for your colouring which is why it is important to seek a makeup artists expertise.

Colour Tips:

Purply mauve is a incredibly faltering colour for blue/gray eyes. It is an unexpected shade and if applied correctly looks natural and brightens eyes.

 

Matte Brown on brown or green eyes is not always the natural option, it can often appear flat, lifeless and dull. Instead try bronze (which is brown with gold through it), or olive green shades.  

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How do you deal with the demands of photography?

It is no longer true that you need a lot more makeup due to photographic lenses, simply because a lot of wedding photographers use digital cameras which have amazing flattering lighting tools built in. Wear the amount of makeup you feel comfortable in.
Natural daylight can make your face appear bland and tends to suck away natural colour, therefore makeup such as bronzers, blusher and face powder are important to give a healthy colour and contour to your face.
It is crucial to wear some type of powder, this could be mineral, blotting powder or translucent. Without a basic layer of powder you can easily end up looking shiny regardless of your skin type.

Is it true that sun block and light reflecting makeup can cause problems?

Yes it is, sunscreen will cause a reaction with camera flashes which can make your skin appear much lighter than it is. The best way around this is to use a foundation with a built in sunscreen as this is usually a much lower spf and doesn’t react with cameras. Remember that makeup protects your skin by adding a layer of coverage so if you don’t think you’ll need sunscreen on your face, then best to steer clear from it.

Can a bride just go with lip gloss or not?

At the very least I would recommend a lip pencil with the gloss. Lip pencil applied over your whole mouth will enhance your lips by giving them structure, and once your lip gloss wears off, as lip pencils have a matte texture, your lips will always have the pencil layer of colour on.

Favourite products for brides?

Blotting Powder, a Pearlized liquid mixed into foundation (this makes your skin glow), false lashes, waterproof mascara and concealer. Buffer Brush.

Waterproof mascara or eyelash extensions/falsies?

Waterproof mascara should be applied with or without extensions or falsies as it will coat your natural lashes and give you extra lash volume.

I recommend eyelash extensions as they look incredibly natural, in fact they just look like your own lashes only thicker and longer. False lashes in comparison only last the night whereas eyelash extensions last up to 8 weeks if cared for.

Tips for staying power?

The correct skin care regime will help get your skin on a balanced track which will keep makeup on longer. Ensure your moisturiser is applied 5-8 minutes before your foundation.

Your makeup base is the most important part of ensuring your makeup stays on well. Get your foundation base right and you won’t have to worry about the rest.

Application Technique: Apply your foundation (I recommend liquid for a natural healthy finish) with a foundation brush or sponges and then in circular motions use a ‘Buffer’ brush to buff the liquid into your skin making the product buff right in rather than sitting on the surface. Re-apply until you get the coverage you wish, dab on concealer where needed then apply a blot powder. Finish with a bronzing powder around the edges of your face and under your cheekbones.

Buffer brushes are a flat makeup brush which looks like a man’s shaving brush.

 

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What should a bride (or her bridesmaid) carry for touch-ups during the day?

Ask your bridesmaid to carry a makeup purse around for you and ask her to remind you to do makeup touch ups.
A blot powder is crucial for banishing shine and oils that seep through.
Concealer for around the eyes, waterproof mascara works wonders but if tears appear then your under eye makeup may run and a dab of concealer quickly fixes this up. Lastly, all of your lip products.

Happy Wedding Day to all you Brides out there – Make the most of your beautiful day. xxx. Phoenix.